If you have just acquired a bonsai tree, you may be worried about how to take care of it: you have come to the right place! You can find some hints and tips in Bonsai FAQs below.
Bonsai is an absorbing art, and a great hobby. It can grow into something resembling an obsession to those around you, but there is quite a lot to learn, about your bonsai trees and about bonsai in general. Joining the SBA can give you access to bonsai workshops and Area Group meetings where you can learn about everything to do with bonsai. Every group has experienced members who can help you with your bonsai trees, whether it is horticultural or artistic advice that you want.
Below is a list of commonly used bonsai procedures extracted from our A to Z of bonsai terms
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Air LAYERING - The process by which ROOTS are developed on a stem or branch which is above the ground.
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ANNEALING - The process of softening aluminium/COPPER WIRE by heating and then allowing to cool before applying to BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI.
As copper is worked it becoMEs progressively stiffer. Most copper wire used as a conductor in electrical cables has not been annealed and is relatively stiff. To allow the wire to be used as bonsai wire simply heat with a blowlamp until it is red hot (which happens quite quickly) and allow to cool. The wire will now be much more supple. If you take a piece of the wire and bend it a few times it will become progressively stiffer again.
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Approach GRAFT>GRAFTing - Also terMEd "inarching", this is the grafting process where the exposed CAMBIUM of the SCION (branch of the same tree) is fixed to the exposed cambium of the trunk at the location where a new branch is required. In time the scion grafts (or merges) to the wood of the tree.
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NOTCHING TO BEND THICK BRANCHES - The branch is weakened by CUTTING>CUTTING a V-SHAPEd wedge aCROSS it though not all of the way through the branch. Then using coiled wire, or a guy wire, the gap is pulled shut. Protect by sealing with waterproofed tape. The procedure is best perforMEd in early spring, or in late summer during the quiescent period when there is less BLEEDING and less heavy CALLOUS>CALLOUSing.
http://www.happybonsai.com/bending-big-branches-notching
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| Thanks to - Kenny Middleton for use of the image |
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BLEACHING DEADWOOD - Deadwood is bleached to a silver-white patina, naturally in nature by the effects of sun and rain.
In BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI liME sulphur is applied to deadwood to mimic the effect and also act as a preservative to the deadwood. When applied the LIME SULPHUR is yellow and smelly but it dries white and the smell disappears. The white then weathers to a more natural shade. (See also Lime Sulphur).
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BRANCH EXTENSION - Describes the process by which branches grow (or extend) if left unpruned. Branch extension may be desirable where a new branch is being grown or an existing branch needs to be fattened.
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Branch PRUNING - Selective removal of branches to improve the overall image of the tree.
The guidelines attached under the More button are taken from BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI.COM>CUTEBONSAI.COM (see link).
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| Thanks to - cutebonsai.com for use of the image |
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BUD>BUD GRAFT>GRAFT - Also known as SHIELD GRAFT.
In this process the BARK of the tree where the graft is to be applied should be first well-soaked with water and a "T" cut should be made through to the CAMBIUM in the location where the new branch is required.
With shield/BUD GRAFTING, instead of a SCION, just a small piece of bark with a well-forMEd heel is cut from the scion and inserted inside the "T" of the stock. This heel is the DORMANTBUD>DORMANT BUD lying at the join between the trunk and the leaf AXIL. The wound is bound with RAFFIA and coated with wax.
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BUD>BUDNOTCHING>BUD NOTCHING - CUTTING>CUTTING a small crescent of BARK from above a bud to stimulate growth from that bud and to encourage a wide angle between the resulting shoot and the main branch.
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Cleft GRAFT>GRAFTing - This involves inserting a small (3-5 cms) split in the end of a branch and the insertion of a SCION from elsewhere on the saME plant (or from another tree of the same SPECIES). The base of the scion should be "double chamfered" before insertion and then the join should be bound with RAFFIA and smeared with grafting wax.
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CLIP AND GROW - Also terMEd the LING NAM method "clip and grow" is the term used to describe the BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI styling proces where the approach is to allow growth to occur before PRUNING back to a BUD>BUD facing the direction in which you wish it to grow.
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COPPICING - The practice of CUTTING>CUTTING trees back to their base in order to encourage the growth of several new stems , almost invariably carried out on DECIDUOUS SPECIES.
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CROWN>CROWN GRAFT>GRAFT - A Crown or rind graft enables the formation of multiple trunks, or the restructuring of elderly trees with a sound root system.
Also an inferior or damaged crown can be repaired by removing the crown of the tree from the stock and inserting new branches. The approach is generally appropriate if a trunk is more than 3cm thick.
The process involves the "squaring off" of the main trunk and the creation of several vertical slits in the BARK. The sections of bark between the slits is then prized away from the CAMBIUM. The SCION is then inserted between the bark and the cambium with its single chamfered surface facing the cambium. The graft is then bound with RAFFIA and wax applied.
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CUTTING>CUTTING - A piece of a plant which has been removed from the donor plant and rooted in growing MEdium to produce a new plant.
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| Thanks to - Wikipedia for use of the image |
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DEFOLIATION - This is the process used to improve the density of growth and assist in the size reduction of LEAVES on a DECIDUOUSTREE>DECIDUOUS TREE.
The defoliation process involves the partial or total removal of the established leaves normally in late spring or early sumMEr in order to allow time for the new leaves to develop before autumn.
Complete defoliation should only be carried out every other year at the most, in order not to stress the tree too much.
The leaves should be removed by CUTTING>CUTTING with TRIMMING SHEARS at their base, leaving just the PETIOLE>PETIOLE (the stalk on which they grow) so that any goodness within the petiole can drain back and feed the DORMANTBUD>BUD>DORMANT BUDs at their base.
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BUD>BUDDING>DISBUDDING - Removal of unwanted buds in order to direct the plants energy into the remaining ones. This is often used in BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI as a shaping technique especially with shohin (small size) bonsai. Unwanted buds if allowed to grow will have the beneficial effect of thickening the branch between it and the trunk. Their removal however, LEAVES scars which are unacceptable on a small tree, so by careful removal of unwanted buds from the front this risk can be eliminated.
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DIVISION - A MEthod or propogating shrubs by carefully dividing the root ball and replanting the seperated sections.
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Earth LAYERING - This PROPOGATION technique involves removing a small section of BARK from a low growing branch and anchoring it to the ground so that ROOTS will sprout from the exposed area.
When this happens the branch can be cut away from the main tree and allowed to grow as an independent plant.
This is the propogation "MEthod of choice" for sprawling plants like low rhododendron and creeping juniper.
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| Thanks to - Wikipedia for use of the image |
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EDA>EDANUKI>EDA NUKI - Japanese term for the process of removing unwanted branches.
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EDA>EDA ZAshi - Japanese term for the the process of removing unwanted branches.
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EXFOLIATE - To peel away in strips as in the BARK of trees such as eucalyptus or paper bark maples.
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FEATHERING - A process by which young saplings are allowed to retain their lower branches for a few years in order to thicken and strengthen the trunk. These branches are then removed in stages first CUTTING>CUTTING back the lowest in half, then in the following year removing them completely and cutting back the next lowest by half. This process is rePEATed until the clean trunk reaches the required height and GIRTH.
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GERMINATION>GERMINATION - The point of growth initiation of a seed with the seed developing initial ROOTS.
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GIRDLING - Also referred to as "ring-BARKing". The removal of a band of bark (which can vary in width) from all around the trunk of a tree or branch when air-LAYERING or trying to encourage new ROOTS to form at the point of the girdle.
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| Thanks to - Wikipedia for use of the image |
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GRAFT>GRAFT - To join a stemof one plant with another so they grow together. Grafting is used both to propogate plant SPECIES and to add foliage where none previously existed on a BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI.
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GRAFT>GRAFT - When a stem of one plant is joined to another to grow then this is terMEd a graft. There are various methods of grafting , see : THREAD GRAFTING and APPROACH GRAFTING
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| Thanks to - Wikipedia for use of the image |
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Ground LAYERING - This is the process of creating new plants by lowering branches of existing plants down into the ground and pinning them in place so that they will root at that point and can then be separated from the parent tree.
This is most suitable for plants with low hanging branches e.g forsythia, pyracantha, and pine
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HA GARI - Japanese term for leaf pinching.
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HA MIZU - Japanese term for moistening LEAVES with water - or MISTING.
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Ha ZAshi - Japanese term for leaf PRUNING.
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HAGARI - Japanese for "pinching", the process where growing tips are removed by pinching and seperating from a branch.
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HAMIZU - Japanese for the "MISTING" of BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI trees
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HARDENING OFF - The process of gradually introducing a plant which has been grown in sheltered or protected conditions to the rigours of the outside environMEnt.
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HARI GANE KAKI - Japanese term for branch WIRING.
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HARIGANE - Japanese term for WIRING of branches to develop position or moveMEnt.
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Hasami ZUKURI - The process of completing a tree without the use of wire i.e. literally MEans scissor work.
This is done in order to bring about a more natural look to the tree, and tree SHAPE is achieved only by PRUNING with scissors. The scissors work process is said to bring out the quality of the tree branches in accordance with the age of the tree.
Known in the west as PINCH AND GROW.
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MAMIZU - Japanese term for MISTING of foliage in order to increase HUMIDITY in the growing area.
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INOSCULATION - A naturally occurring phenoMEnom where branches or ROOTS of trees growing together or aCROSS one another will join as a GRAFT>GRAFT.
Most common in the same kind of tree. Inosculation happens when the BARK of two branches are rubbed through to the CAMBIUM layer perhaps by wind action. Often used in the pLEACHING of trees or hedges.
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| Thanks to - Wikipedia for use of the image |
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JIN - In BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI, jin is the Japanese term that refers to a dead branch which has lost its BARK. It may also be used as a verb i.e. to jin (a branch).
In the wild, dead branches are eventually bleached white or pale grey by the eleMEnts. This occurs commonly in confers, especially JUNIPERS and pines, but less so in DECIDUOUSTREE>DECIDUOUS TREEs (oak would be an exception).
The process is replicated in bonsai by shortening branches to stubs, stripping the bark and splintering the HEARTWOOD to a naturalistic form. The jin may then be arificially bleached in order to reproduce the colour seen in nature.
Jin means "God" and is symbolic of the Supreme Being's influence on nature.
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| Thanks to - Scottish Bonsai Association for use of the image |
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KANSUI>KANSUI - Japanese term for WATERING of plants.
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KANSUI>KANSUI - Japanese term to describe plant WATERING
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GRAFT>GRAFT>LATERAL GRAFT - This grafting technique is most commonly applied to EVERGREEN trees in the sumMEr period.
A notch about 5 cms in length is made in the lower part of the trunk. The chamfered edge of a SCION from the donor plant is then inserted. The graft is then bound with RAFFIA and covered with grafting compound.
Where the technique is used to capitalise on a strong ROOTStock the original trunk may be severed just above the graft when it has taken the following spring.
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LAYERING - Technique for gaining a new BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI from a larger, more mature speciMEn.
Techniques include GROUND LAYERING and AIR LAYERING , both described seperately in this A to Z.
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LEACHING - The process by which nutrients and other soluble minerals are removed from the soil by water draining through. To counteract this phenoMEnon BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI growers recommend applying more regular but weaker feeds.
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LEAF TRIMMING - LEAVES can be trimMEd partially or completely (see DEFOLIATION) and this should be done by CUTTING>CUTTING the PETIOLE>PETIOLE (the leaf stem). The leaf stem will then naturally fall away within a short period. Leaves should not be pulled off.
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LING NAM - More commonly terMEd the "CLIP AND GROW method", Ling Nam is the term used to describe the BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI styling proces where the approach is to allow growth to occur before PRUNING back to a BUD>BUD facing the direction in which you wish it to grow.
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METSUMI>METSUMI - The process of PINCHING OUT terminal BUD>BUDs.
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MISHO>MISHO - Misho the process of growing a BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI from seed.
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MISTING - Describes the technique of spraying a fine mist of water onto plants in order to increase humid atmosphere around indoor plants and also to reduce the rate of moisture loss from LEAVES on recently collected outdoor plants. There are several other techniques of improving levels of HUMIDITY.
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NEBUSE - Japanese term for PRUNING>ROOT PRUNING.
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OVER POTTING - Planting a BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI tree in a BONSAI POT or container than is larger than required to maintain the tree.
Often done when a bonsai tree is less actively well cared for or is being given a "rest" for a year or so. Trees are soMEtimes also planted back into the ground to allow to grow on a bit outside of a pot.
However, the size of the pot used has a major influence that determines the speed at which the tree grows and too big a pot can have negative impacts on health and growth rate - see attached website.
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OVERPOTTING - Planting a BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI in a bonsai container that is larger than necessary to maintain it, soMEtimes done deliberately to provide room for future root development
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PINCH AND GROW - This is the technique (generally attributed to the Chinese) used to style trees which are too brittle, spiky, thorny or fleshy to style easily using wire. Examples include quince, pyracantha or jade. It requires the tree to be SHAPEd by PRUNING and pinching only.
Known to Japanese BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAIST>BONSAISTs as Hasami ZUKURI.
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PINCHING OUT - SoMEtimes referred to as "pinching back". DECIDUOUS, or broad leafed trees, need to have their new SHOOTS pinched out at the growing tips regularly during the spring and summer months in order to encourage back-BUD>BUDding (new buds within the BRANCH STRUCTURE) and branch RAMIFICATION (the structured network of branches supporting foliage).
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| Thanks to - AusBonsaaiWiki for use of the image |
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BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI>POTTING BONSAI - See REPOTTING.
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| Thanks to - Kenny Middleton for use of the image |
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PROPOGATION - The increase of plants by : seed, CUTTING>CUTTING, LAYERING, DIVISION, GRAFT>GRAFTing or tissue culture
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PRUNING - In order to develop a BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI from an existing plant, branches will need to be pruned in order to establish the overall structure of the tree. This is referred to as the "subtraction" MEthod.
Pruning of established bonsai is also required to remove new SHOOTS and foliage, in order to maintain the overall SHAPE and design of the tree.
Pruning of the trees ROOTS is also required to maintain healthy bonsai (see ROOT PRUNING).
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REDUCTION BUILDING - This process uses accelerated growth techniques and massive foliage and branch reduction, followed by strong re-growth, more moderate reduction and training (primARILy by training). It is used to produce larger trunks with character and TAPER, particularly in TROPICAL regions but may be applied in temperate regions to SPECIES like aZAleas.
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REPOTTING - The ROOTS of potted trees are limited by the size of their container as to how far they can spread. After a period of tiME which varies dependant on the SPECIES of tree, the root systems of all pot-grown trees fill their containers, eventually becoming 'POT BOUND' and in some cases they begin to push the tree out of the pot.
When this happens the fine FEEDER ROOTS that are essential to the uptake of water and nutrients have little room to grow, are far away from the main TRUNK OF THE TREE, the soil structure deteriorates and the plant starts to suffer. At this point repotting is required to allow fresh COMPOST/potting medium/substrate to be inserted in and around the root system and the root sytem itself may require CUTTING>CUTTING back so that it can continue to form fine feeder roots closer to the trunk.
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| Thanks to - Kenny Middleton for use of the image |
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BARKING>RING BARKING - Also referred to as "GIRDLING". The removal of a band of bark (which can vary in width) from all around the trunk of a tree or branch when air-LAYERING or trying to encourage new ROOTS to form.
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| Thanks to - Wikipedia for use of the image |
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GRAFT>GRAFT>ROOT GRAFT - In BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI this approach is most often used to improve the structure of the NEBARI. The technique is the saME as for CLEFT GRAFTING but, in this case, the SCION is a section of root which is grafted onto the required position within the nebari. The process is generally carried out in spring.
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PRUNING>ROOT PRUNING - Pruning of the ROOTS followed by REPOTTING encourages young FEEDER ROOTS to multiply and develop, which in turn leads to a healthier and stronger tree.
Root pruning should generally be carried out in spring to allow maximum tiME for recovery before winter. After the tree is removed from its pot and the roots untangled, the roots should be trimmed on all sides of the root ball (usually by about one third) in order to form a flat, circular pad of roots.
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| Thanks to - Kenny Middleton for use of the image |
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SHARI - A shari is an area of DEADWOOD which extends down the trunk of a tree.
It is created by tearing away BARK from a JIN and continuing this down the trunk. The area is then treated with liME sulphur to whiten and preserve the deadwood which has been exposed.
See also - NEJIKAN.
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GRAFT>GRAFT>SHIELD GRAFT - Also known as "BUD>BUDGRAFT>BUD GRAFT". In this process the BARK of the tree where the graft is to be applied should be first well-soaked with water and a "T" cut should be made through to the CAMBIUM in the location where the new branch is required.
With shield/bud grafting, instead of a SCION, just a small piece of bark with a well-forMEd heel is cut from the scion and inserted inside the "T" of the stock. This heel is the DORMANTBUD>DORMANT BUD lying at the join between the trunk and the leaf AXIL. The wound bound with RAFFIA and coated with wax.
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SPRAYING (WATER) - Spraying is an essential part of WATERING. Plants should be "mist-sprayed" via a fine rose attached to a watering can or via a hand operated sprayer in orde to refresh the foliage , provide a humid atmosphere and wash away any dust.
Newly potted trees often benefit more from mist spraying to prevent excessive evaporation from the LEAVES.
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| Thanks to - Lous Bonsai Florida for use of the image |
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STRIKE - The successful outcoME of taking CUTTING>CUTTINGs. Cuttings "strike" whereas GRAFT>GRAFTs "take".
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BUD>BUDDING)>TAKE (BUDDING) - The successful out coME of budding. GRAFT>GRAFTs "take" whereas CUTTING>CUTTINGs "STRIKE".
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THINNING OUT - PRUNING to achieve a more open structure in the tree.
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GRAFT>GRAFTING>THREAD GRAFTING - Threadgrafting is a process where a hole is made through the trunk and the the SCION (new shoot) is then threaded through the hole and fixed into position - after exposing the CAMBIUM of the shoot.
As the scion and the trunk continue to grow they swell and are forced together; eventually grafting together.
This MEthod is suitable for DECIDUOUS and BROADLEAF>BROADLEAF trees but not for CONIFERous SPECIES where complete DEFOLIATION of the scion will result only in the death of the shoot.
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UNDERPLANTING - Growing of low growing, small plants underneath BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI speciMEns.
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URO (HOLLOW) - This is a small hollow in the trunk of DECIDUOUSTREE>DECIDUOUS TREEs created to mimic the effect when, in nature, a branch is lost leaving an indentation where the branch used to be.
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| Thanks to - Kaizen Bonsai for use of the image |
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WATERING - Outdoor Trees
Watering a BONSAI>BONSAI>BONSAI is an art in itself. Weather conditions aCROSS the country vary from county to county and even in your own garden conditions will vary due to exposure to the sun, wind and available rainfall.
The simple answer to the question "when do I water my bonsai" is of course when it needs it. In the height of a warm sumMEr you will need to water your bonsai much more regularly and at some times DAI>DAIly to keep it at its peak condition. In a rainy spring week you may never have to water it at all.
One tip is to allow a small weed or flower to grow in the BONSAI POT alongside the tree - when this wilts you will know that the tree needs watering.
There are a number of factors which determine the frequency of watering -
Click the MORE button
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WIRING - This is the technique of using annealed copper or anodised aluminium wire, wrapped around branches to enable them to be bent and held in SHAPE so that a desired design can be achieved.
Different gauges of wire are available to match to different branch diMEnsions, the general guideline being that the wire should be a third the width of the branch. With thicker branches double wiring may be required. COPPER WIRE is by its nature stiffer than the less expensive aluminium and tends to be used less often on trees in training. However the general consensus is that trees being "shown" if wired should use copper wire.
Warning - Wire can scar branches if left on too long allowing the branch to "grow around" it, so regular checking is important as wire scarring can take years to grow out - and in some tree types it never will.
We are regularly asked the question "how long do I leave the wire on?" The answer is "long enough to set the branch in place". This sometimes takes weeks on a fast growing tree during the growing season or years for a slow growing tree. Sometimes when the wire is removed the branch will spring back into its original position which means that the branch will require rewiring.
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| Thanks to - Peter Thorne, Ayr for use of the image |
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